I'll preface this like my last post by saying I looked for an answer before I made a new thread. I know that's aggravating. I just need to know if the EGR valve is necessary on the N/A motors? I've always removed and blocked off on my previous cars. But they weren't German...

And in the event that this isn't the problem (even though it's throwing the code) I'll explain my issue. My car will not start after driving to normal running temps. I have to open the hood and let it cool. There is no noticeable performance loss and I can push start and it catches everytime as well as no starting issues when cool. This is leading me to believe it's some stupid vapor problem from a clogged EGR but ANY advice in this area as always will be greatly appreciated.

 

What are the "won't start" symptoms ?
1. engine spins over with starter, but won't run.
2. Nothing happens when I turn key to start.

 

Ya I guess I should have been more specific. It just turns over and doesn't catch.

 

What code are you getting?

 

Could be CPS or RCM, both can be heat sensitive.

Classic CPS symptoms, but fuel relay in RCM will also act the same.

 

I was thinking the same thing. My EGR was stuck closed for weeks, until I got it changed - car sure had less throttle delay with it closed, so I put an EGR disable switch in the car so I can have a "stuck closed" EGR anytime I want to!

On the other hand...

I can't imagine a stuck OPEN EGR would cause that much trouble, do you George?

 

Fellas it's been so long since I put my ELM on that I don't remember the exact code, just that it was the EGR valve, backed up by a friend's code reader. Didn't give it much thought since I usually just remove those and cap em off. If it's not going to cause issues then I'll just do the same since my state doesn't have emissions checks. I'm not completely acronym illiterate but I'm drawing blanks on PCS and RCM. I'm guessing RCM is a control module which if that's the deal then crap. Those are like $800 for the WS6 and that's cheap American. So again, anything further is appreciated. And thanks for the replies so far.

 

Relay control module and a crank position sensor. Read where these are usually the problem and I read somewhere where the "cheap" fix was to replace some circuit board under the control mod. Awesome...

 

No............. The RCM (relay control module) is easily resoldered. MOst issues are broken solder connections where the connector pins solder to the board. SOMETIMES a relay will go bad, but they are cheap online (about $5 each with shipping if you order 5 at a time).

The CPS (crank position sensor) goes bad when hot quite often, the car will start and run until the CPS gets too warm. Easy to change, $45 online.
https://www.germanautosupply.com/sto...sensor-86.html I carried a spare for three years before mine went out - but several of us carry spares - they do go bad quite often.

Sometimes the OTHER CPS (cam position sensor) will fail but it's really kinda rare.

 

I sincerely appreciate your time. I need to find a local car club. I miss having that security that if anything goes wrong there'll be a dozen or more members offering to help. Reliable help. Again, this is useful knowledge and much appreciated.

 

Doesn't sound like an EGR thing, but here is anEGR thread.


https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post799624

 

I appreciate all the info fellas but no one has said whether or not it's ok to just delete those stupid things. My only concern would be air/fuel mixture. And I'm just about convinced my starting issue is a CPS or RMC issue.

 

No, I wouldn't think so. I believe FabianMoody who sometimes checks in here still has a stuck EGR.
I looked at it for him last May, and he hasn't replaced it yet.

 

Mine stuck closed - got a CEL and could not pass an emissions test.

HOWEVER, a lot of the throttle delay was gone - I got a new valve put on, but then put a cutout switch in the car for when I want faster response. Using the switch throws a code, but once I set it back to normal, the code goes away in a few days.

If you read about the EGR, it is kind of a joke. It was implemented by the EPA to reduce one emission (can't remember - nitrous oxide??), but it decreases performance, it decreases mileage and increases hydrocarbon emissions.

On the Dragon, and in some other instances, I disable mine - combustion chamber temps will rise, but from what I read, not to any dangerous level, it's just that those temps work out to mean more of one emission (again, I THINK it's nitrous oxide).

 

I'm not sure about temperature rises but I do know that all that emissions crap does nothing but rob performance and decrease gas mileage. But with it being German I'm completely ignorant. I had no idea what it would do to remove the EGR. I don't know if there'd be any real significance in headers but I'd like to eventually have the cats removed at least. Unless you guys know something about back pressure that I don't.

 

Lots of cars with deleted cats over here.

 

Not sure HOW you would go about deleting it, but I think its not that important. I am thinking of putting in a cut off for mine as well. I really like the way BB ran when the EGR was plugged. It will shoot that damn code though.

 

On my LS1 I just pulled it and bolted on a flange that capped it off. At the time I was in a car club and had access to several people who tuned them so getting someone to "remove" it from the PCM wasn't hard. I know nothing about tuning so don't know what it entails. Actually, I don't even know if flashing the PCM is how it's done. I just know it can be.

 

The EGR has no bad effect on the engine. It makes the engine run COOLER by letting in some exhaust gas while,cruising and at idle is some exhaust gas when cruising and at idle. It does NOT operate at WOT. Disabling it will cost you mileage. Don't know about you but my mileage is nothing to,brag about as it is.
Your not starting when warm is something else. I NEVER delete the EGR, I want all the mileage I can get, even from a performance car.
Have your injectors professionally cleaned or try a new set.

 

I will never claim to be an expert on motors, I know just enough to get by. My previous cars have been LS1 cars. Had an 02 SS and my baby an 01 WS6. All the guys in the car club I was in removed those and these are guys that will spend a weekend squeezing another horse from their motor. I guess I don't understand why you would delete something that made your engine run cooler. The gas mileage part was never an issue for obvious reasons. I have a few friends in the import camp that claim to do the same. Honestly, if it improves gas mileage I'll replace it because there is no performance to these little cars. Fun to drive and that's all I care about anymore.