When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Update:
Started working the top layer of the ashtray bezel... The frame seems larger and out of scale but this is more of a visual illusion... the open mounting frame (2nd layer) appears larger, but I intentionally "beefed up" the perimeter framework given the new switch location & layers will greatly add structurally to the otherwise open frame once dissected now simplified. I still need to adjust the official depth & angle of the front bezel to the mounting fame, and create the attachment mounts and/or welds of the combined pieces.
While I was working on the designs... I took 5 min break and designed a little badge i(5" X 1.125") n a translucent blue plastic. I did print this on a slightly higher setting, just to see the result... and was quite astonished how well this printed (giving my upper-middle settings). A few increased quailty settings, and this would print incredibly well. I may recess this into my new front bezels, with a controllable led back-light. Just a concept brought a little closer to reality, this will be on the back-burner for a while!
I‘d recommend to double-check your test prints also with the seat heating buttons. In my experience, they are wider than the original mounting frame and will not fit if using the original dimensions.
I simply got rid of the frame to also save some filament and printing time.
Thanks for the heads-up on the seat heater button! When I have completely printed all the test parts, I will test fit and make any modifications before the final abs print. I have taken the reverse engineering design to this product... I wanted to do it this way, because someway.... somehow... I will be figuring a replacement for the cup holder, and future speaker addition. My models have kept with the oem bezels and frames for the support, and I have a few ideas for future mods/add-ons that in keeping with the factory bezels will be able to do for myself and possible others without major modifications to the factory. I know that I could even more simplify the framing and printing.... but my major concern is print quality.... with the least amount of finish work (still have not decided wether I will be paintings, or leather upholstery). I have not printed with ABS yet, and once test prints and I'm ready for the final print will be doing the ABS. I have some smaller items that I plan to print in abs that will be done first (want to figure the settings, temp, extrusion before the final prints). I will be in the future building/purchasing a large cnc router, and being self taught... this project has really taught me more than the basics of the programs I use, and plan on using for the design of the future cnc router in my woodworking workshop.
Update:
Last night, I did the test print of the new switch top layer (front curve/switch holder that replaces the ashtray bezel area. I'm really pleased with the result! If you are asking... what are the lined grids? those are the removable supports that are used to assist in keeping overhangs from melting to the bottom that have no vertical support underneath. The last photo, I have removed majority of the temporary supports (they simple just break away). The finished prints looks rough, but this is using minimal print settings.... Once I officially print in the abs plastic I will be increasing the resolution of the print (since I am only test printing right now, and do not want to waste filament and/or time). I will be attempting to test print the top layer HVAC/Double-Din top layer bezel this evening. I will have to split the bezel into 2-4 pieces to fit my print bed. Another reason I reversed engineered the model (I will split the rear 2nd layer with the splits being offset from the top/1st layer, and all splits will be fused with all joints overlapping between the two layers). It is quite intriguing how "square" 3d printers can print, and I will intentionally split the top layer down the center spine, so once completed I do not believe the attachment lines will be very apparent. If they do... I'll will have to do some filling .
Just yesterday, I received my new 3D pen in the mail(handheld manual printer in the form of a over-sized pen). This will allow me to "plastic weld" all joints with the same material, correct any small imperfections, and should fair way better than using messy adhesives (I will have to play with this a bit before I can guarantee the desired results though, and this should help in any detail work that may need completed).
I apologize.... haven't been working on this much for the last two weeks (been helping out with some of the Midwest flooding and much needed Spring cleaning) and didn't want anyone to think I had "flaked" on the project. I was fighting getting the bottom ashtray angles 100% against the shifter bezel... This is now completed. I thinned and shelled the hvac/double-din bezel and have printed 1/2 (original right 1/2 was too thick "as shown"). Once I print the 2nd (thinned/shelled) right side I will be able to take the rear layers and verify they connect with all the oem mounting points, and verify the front top layer bezels are accurate. If all goes accordingly, I will be verifying the depth of the rear layer to the top layer and once I have this depth.... will be able to make adjustments and will be printing the actual part in abs plastic. I spread out all the printed parts that I have done.
I have been trying to decide how I will be finishing the new trim pieces? I may change my print head nozzel size (obtain higher print resolution, slower print speed) and see the results. My current test prints have been printed with a resolution of 0.3mm and I was tempted to keep this for the final print but use wood abs filament (final would be stained and look amazingly like wood) since the surface so closely resembles wood grain but this isn't really want I want. If I do increase the resolution, there may not be too much of a need for filling/painting. I also have the option of smoothing the printed parts with a acetone vapor and if this process compares may create a complete final finish if comes out as smooth and glossy as I have seen done before (will still require a anti-uv clear-coat). Still considering wrapping with leather, and adding a center double stitch with contrasting thread color down the center spine of the interior.
Too many option to choose, only by trail and error will I finally pick one lol.
Enjoy!
Won't know until I have completed my model and evaluate how economical production would be.... let alone finishing. I actually have found a upholstery leather vinyl that damn near matches the oem silver color that I am swaying towards. I just won't know until the final prints are in visual, and see the actual printed top layers (if overall a huge sand job or a quick fill/prime.... color choice would be the only option to choose if it prints smoothly). Time will tell!
Thanks for pushing forward With this project! I want to keep my car modern and fresh, yet still look OEM. Have you considered stereo lithographic printing?
I believe you are referring to SLA printing? (The media is liquid with an intense laser directed usually over-top of the liquid, with each laser layer a shape begins to emerge from the liquid pool). Sla prints require either a UV light or dry time to fully cure. When I was shopping for 3D printers I did consider a sla printer.... but between reviews, price, mess, and reduced print size.... concluded the extruded type 3d printers would work best for me. The higher price compared to smaller printable size was/is rather drastic. Plus with the traditionally extruded media type printers, have a huge variety of printable media options (pla plastic, abs plastic, petg plastic) than any sla printer. (Additionally, when I was reviewing the sla printers their printed parts can be rather brittle until fully cured. They are greatest for detail, given I saw many jewelers using/reviewing these printers). For the size of my project, I don't believe sla printing to be the best options given their decreased printable size, limited media options, and higher upfront/printing costs. (Although the detail of sla prints shouldn't require any fill/prime or modification at all)
I actually planned on adding a rather large cnc router to my workshop in the next few years, and have pondered on the idea of a complete cherry or walnut wood top layer bezel. Using my models, I should be able to modify a few program options and will be able to carve into wood, rather than print plastic.
Well, I did my test fit a few days ago! Really happy with the top layer, but have some modifying for the rear layer (thinning & taking 1/8 - 1/16 inch off each of the edges and the top layer needs a slight adjustment to the center HVAC curvature for the buttons-defroster/ac/rest). The HVAC curves do look rough, just keep in mind for doing test prints I decreased the amount of media and resolution of the print. The final print shouldn't have such rough edges and should come-out much cleaner with the increased print resolution and support.
FYI - the bottom button/ashtray bezel has already been adjusted, re-angled, and cleaned up , but didn't think it necessary to reprint the entire piece (the changes are really subtle, and reprinting would be more wasted media than I wanted too). The two top bezels along the center spine still needs to be combined, but since these are only the test pieces.... just hadn't done it.
Once I have edited the rear layer, will be doing one last test print (only rear mounting layer) to verify placement... then the official abs printing will begin!
Well, I did my test fit a few days ago! Really happy with the top layer, but have some modifying for the rear layer (thinning & taking 1/8 - 1/16 inch off each of the edges and the top layer needs a slight adjustment to the center HVAC curvature for the buttons-defroster/ac/rest). The HVAC curves do look rough, just keep in mind for doing test prints I decreased the amount of media and resolution of the print. The final print shouldn't have such rough edges and should come-out much cleaner with the increased print resolution and support.
FYI - the bottom button/ashtray bezel has already been adjusted, re-angled, and cleaned up , but didn't think it necessary to reprint the entire piece (the changes are really subtle, and reprinting would be more wasted media than I wanted too). The two top bezels along the center spine still needs to be combined, but since these are only the test pieces.... just hadn't done it.
Once I have edited the rear layer, will be doing one last test print (only rear mounting layer) to verify placement... then the official abs printing will begin!
Re: Double Din Dash Kit - Teaser - Far from done!
.
