Stumbled upon you guys while trying to fix my xfire
Hey guys, have an 04 crossfire with around 68k miles on it. Bought it when it had 42k 2 years ago. It seems I'm running into the "mystery no start" and quickly becoming more then ready to take a hammer to everything. I've tested the battery and it's all good. Checked the points on the RCM and everything was covered, I even put some more on just to be safe even though I'm terrible at soldering. Still won't turn over. Can hear the fuel pump start up when I turn the key. I'll get 1 or 2 "almost" starts and then it won't try to crank anymore. I can hear the click of the starter though, it just doesn't try to engage. I've seen a lot about SKREEM? Any thoughts or ideas would be huge.
Thanks
Korrie
Thanks
Korrie
I had the battery unhooked for a full day. After unhooking the battery for a little bit and resetting the system I will get 2 almost starts and then no crank. This has happened every time that ice tried to start it after messing with something so at least a dozen times.
I had the battery unhooked for a full day. After unhooking the battery for a little bit and resetting the system I will get 2 almost starts and then no crank. This has happened every time that ice tried to start it after messing with something so at least a dozen times.
It stops before it actually starts. Everything I've read points back to rcm. Possible the whole thing went bad since the points are all covered?
We have a failure to communicate.
Ok. I pulled the rcm to check the 3 'trouble points, they had a good cover on them. When I turn the key the engine will crank to try to start twice without firing up and then on the 3rd try it won't even try to crank. If I disconnect both terminals on the battery to reset the system and try again it will repeat what said before. 2 cranks, no start then no crank
Ok. I pulled the rcm to check the 3 'trouble points, they had a good cover on them. When I turn the key the engine will crank to try to start twice without firing up and then on the 3rd try it won't even try to crank. If I disconnect both terminals on the battery to reset the system and try again it will repeat what said before. 2 cranks, no start then no crank
It is not the RCM, the plastic cover can hide faults, I am not sure what you mean by this. That is like saying he cannot be dead because he has a good suit of armour on.
Last edited by onehundred80; Apr 15, 2017 at 10:45 AM.
I will look into SKREEM failure then. By the cover I ment the pins in the module were not showing. Had a good solder cover on them
Ok. I pulled the rcm to check the 3 'trouble points, they had a good cover on them. When I turn the key the engine will crank to try to start twice without firing up and then on the 3rd try it won't even try to crank. If I disconnect both terminals on the battery to reset the system and try again it will repeat what said before. 2 cranks, no start then no crank
Just a thought; could have a bad relay on your RCM? Maybe send a pm to Tighed1 for his opinion & possible repair. My $.02. Curious about Skreem failure, ie; cause(s) and how common?
(e-mail: tighed1@hotmail.com) Posted on Forum.
Last edited by lovecross; Apr 16, 2017 at 03:01 PM. Reason: add info.
So pulled RCM looked everything over again to make sure it was right. Even tore the dash apart to make sure wires to the SKREEM mod were connected and in good condition. Noticed when I turn the key and leave it in the "on" position the starter makes some noise. A low electrical humming and then after about 25 seconds it clicks a few times and stops without turn the key to the start position.
Thanks for everyone's input. I really appreciate everything. I took a video of the noise but can't figure out how to attach it he
Thanks for everyone's input. I really appreciate everything. I took a video of the noise but can't figure out how to attach it he
Last edited by Kgalliher519; Apr 16, 2017 at 04:32 PM.
if it is an RCM failure the fuel pump is not getting power, easy check, put 12v on the power term of fuel pump, if the engine starts the RCM is bad(relay not energizing). probable fix is the solder job. Fuel pump located right rear underside under removable panel.
Fuel pump kicks on, can hear it running when you turn the key. I tried the solder trick but still didn't work. I probably missed something on it somewhere. Broke down and just ordered a new one. 144 for the module with next day shipping. Will update tuesday once I took it up if that makes it work.
onehundred80 or ?; question please: is there any consensus or theories about likely or possible causes of Skreem failure? Thanks for pointing out that classic symptom.
Is it possibly a (common) manufacturing weakness/flaw in that part? Does our sister MB SLK 320 share this? Hopefully, most of us will not experience this particular problem. Thanks to all.
Update. New RCM didn't work, same issue that I was having. Towing it to the dealership tomorrow. Just in case it is the starter i bought my own since it was going to be $900+ through the dealership. They're nice enough to change it out with the one I bought since there's is so expensive. Hopefully this fixes the problem. Don't have any other security issues so not sure how it could be the SKREEM.
Update. New RCM didn't work, same issue that I was having. Towing it to the dealership tomorrow. Just in case it is the starter i bought my own since it was going to be $900+ through the dealership. They're nice enough to change it out with the one I bought since there's is so expensive. Hopefully this fixes the problem. Don't have any other security issues so not sure how it could be the SKREEM.
Read up about it here on the forum, just search SKREEM and see, there is one cure if that is the cause and that is a new module. You can buy this module from NeedsWings for $250 and it is plug and play.
Surrendering to the tender mercies of your local dealer will likely cost you much more as they will change everything before they get to the SKEEEM.
Read about the symptoms and lf your problem fits them, buy a SKREEM.
A starter probably costs more. How you settled on a starter I cannot figure out.
The three start and then a battery reset to do it all over again is the classic symptom of a SKREEM failure.
Read up about it here on the forum, just search SKREEM and see, there is one cure if that is the cause and that is a new module. You can buy this module from NeedsWings for $250 and it is plug and play.
Surrendering to the tender mercies of your local dealer will likely cost you much more as they will change everything before they get to the SKEEEM.
Read about the symptoms and lf your problem fits them, buy a SKREEM.
A starter probably costs more. How you settled on a starter I cannot figure out.
Read up about it here on the forum, just search SKREEM and see, there is one cure if that is the cause and that is a new module. You can buy this module from NeedsWings for $250 and it is plug and play.
Surrendering to the tender mercies of your local dealer will likely cost you much more as they will change everything before they get to the SKEEEM.
Read about the symptoms and lf your problem fits them, buy a SKREEM.
A starter probably costs more. How you settled on a starter I cannot figure out.
I did read through all of the SKREEM threads. My alarm does not go off, car doesn't start at all, and there is no check engine light registering. I had read about removing fuse 9 being a temp fix and that didn't solve the issue (not sure how true it is bit from what I read worked for a few people). When the key is in the "on" position you can here the starter click like it is trying to engage even though the key is not turned. All this leads me to the starter being the issue. Whether it's the whole starter or just the solenoid that's gone bad.
Tell him about the SKREEM though.


