Ok! heres an interesting delimma I'm in.

Heres my situation: a few days ago at random my car alarm on my 2005 Crossfire SRT-6 started to go off out of no where. I went out to check things out ( which btw, wow, that alarm is LOUD, and very different than any other alarm I've heard ) and everything looked good! I press the button on my key fob to "unlock" and it went off, no problem. Car turns on fine, drives great.

Then....

Today, I am out and about. Went to visit some family, press the lock button on the fob as usual, lights blink, doors lock, all looks good. Go inside and hang out there for the next 2-3 hours. All the sudden alarm goes off AGAIN!

Check things out, press the key fob, alarm goes off. I decide to turn the car on and take it for a drive around the parking lot of the community I was at.

This is when I started to notice the interior lights flickering randomly, then the door locks would "unlock" on their own when I stopped even though I was still in Drive mode.

I started to think it could be the battery under the hood because its the original battery from the factory ( the stock Mercedes Benz one ) and I've had quite abit of corrosion built up on the negative post which I've cleaned every few weeks with water + baking soda + battery corrosion brush just to get as much of the remaining life left out of the battery.

Anyhow, with the flickering and the locks unlocking at random on their own I figured the battery was the biggest thing, afterall its the factory one.

I went to Advance Auto Parts, they checked my old battery, said that it was in need of replacement. Went ahead and got their best battery ( and only one offered for the Crossfire SRT6 ) which is the AutoCraft Gold Series, part # 48H6. Also clamp off a bit of the terminal that was corroded and added a brand new terminal top post for the negative side of the battery.

Turned the car on, everything was great, even cranked over a bit faster.

Started driving as usual... about 5-10 minutes into the drive, SAME thing happens, just as before the battery was replaced!

1. Interior lights flickering.. dimming even while flickering.

2. Come to a stop at red light, the locks randomly just unlock, all of them. I didn't do anything to cause that, it just happens.

Everything else is smooth, car is responsive, no funny lights on the dash, everything is just fine. Except the flicking lights and random unlocking..

Then I got to my home, pressed the key fob to lock, lights blinked, doors locked.

Go inside, not even 10 minutes goes by and now the alarm has been randomly going off when it wants to, probably 4-5 times in the last 2 hours, it not only goes off but it also makes the door locks "unlock".

When I go out side to check on things because the alarm is randomly going off, I press the fob to lock, it DOES shut the alarm off but the locks remain "unlock", I then press lock on the key fob after pressing it the first time to shut off the alarm to get the locks to lock and it is then that I notice the alarm light blinking as usual BUT its NOT as bright as usual.. almost like is fading away and once it does fade completely I will hear that alarm go off again..... same thing repeats over again...

What the heck is going on here?? I'm about ready to disconnect the battery for the night just so I can sleep and not baby sit my car all night.

 

I just tried to disconnect the battery but then I can't manually lock the doors as it will NOT allow you to push down to lock. I was able to get both passenger and drivers door locked but the trunk stays unlock since there is no key fob. If I try to lock the car with the fob for all doors I then would disconnect the battery, it starts to go nuts again, actually, once I disconnected it thinking the alarm would shut off, it wouldn't! it still kept blaring until I put the negative terminal back in place just to re-activate the alarm to turn it off.

So now the only way so far to keep the alarm from blaring is if I keep the battery in place, press the key fob to "lock the doors" and arm the alarm, then press unlock on the keyfob so that it deactivates the alarm but then it unlocks only the drivers side.... so far this is working just as long as the alarm isn't flasing in the center lower console but then the drivers side door remains unlocked...

What the heck is going on!?? Is there a way to disconnect the alarm siren so that I can lock the car in place without the alarm going nuts??? Please, advise if anyone knows.

 

I've been doing some research in the search section of the board putting in "alarm problems" and so far I'm thinking at this point its either the Siren gone bad or the Skreem Module. I'm leaning towards the Siren but I need more feedback before I start buying these parts as it sure can add up!

I did read about taking a fuse out in order to shut off the siren, only thing is that I don't know if there are different fuse boxes to look out for than standard Xfires as I have the SRT-6 and it appears to be different fuses than another picture I've seen someone post about how to take it out.

Any tips or advise would be appreciated!!

 

Just rip the fuse out. I think it's the #9 fuse from memory but I could be wrong. You will have no interior lights and you wont be able to remotely lock your car.

Edit: Also could be your alarm module which is located in your trunk.

 

So far I've read that it can be the Alarm Siren which is located in the passenger side under the windsheld cowl by the hood, must take the windsheld arm off in order to reach that area. I'm leaning towards that because its when I ACTIVATE the alarm is when things get crazy, but if I don't activate the alarm, then there is no problems, but I can't lock my drivers door.

Second thing it can be is the SKREEM Module, which I don't know if that is the alarm module you're referring to? you say its located in the trunk but I've read that the Skreen Module is located behind the speedometer cluster.

Thirdly, the fuse box to take fuse 9 out, is that located inside the cabin of the car or under the hood??? where is that fuse box because I checked the one area where theres a bunch of fuses under the hood on the passenger side nearby the battery and there is so much different fuses than what has been pictured in this post:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post477301

 

The fuse is located under the hood on the drivers side. It should be fuse number 9. The SKREEM is in the dash.

Here are some potential things that can cause your alarm to go off on its own:

FALSE GLOVE BOX SWITCH SIGNAL
FALSE LIFTGATE LOCK SWITCH SIGNAL
FALSE HOOD AJAR SWITCH SIGNAL
FALSE LEFT DOOR AJAR SWITCH SIGNAL
FALSE RIGHT DOOR AJAR SWITCH SIGNAL
FALSE IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
FALSE BRAKE LAMP SWITCH SIGNAL
FALSE ANTI-THEFT TOW SENSOR SIGNAL
INTERMITTENT CONDITION

I believe the item in the trunk he was referring to is the central locking pump (He can clarify if he was referring to something else).

You may need to take it to a shop and have them use the DRBIII to isolate the condition that is triggering this.

If you have not already done so, go here https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html and download the SRT-6 Service Manual. It will give you loads of information to diagnose your condition.

I hope this helps, and good luck with getting it resolved.

 

Thank you for that information bmorgan. I was able to figure out the fuse box after you had mentioned its on the drivers side, not the passenger side. I was reading my owners manual and then read what you wrote and figured out that it was located by the master brake cyclinder under the hood nearby the brake fluid fill up or may be it was the steering wheel fill up tank, either way, you can't miss it, its on top of the bay, just take the black lid off.

Got fuse # 9 off and now all is good so far except I have to manually lock the doors my self. Is there a way to manually lock the trunk area?

So far this is a good temporary fix but I want to get to the root of the problem.

I also read that your key fob has a battery checker to see if theres enough power still coming through, to weigh out if the problem lies with needing 2 fob batteries. You can check by pressing the lock and unlock button together and it about a second or two you'll notice a red flash on the top in the right hand corner of the fob key.

So far my batteries are good and they would unlock and lock from a 20 foot distance will no problems before I pulled the fuse so I'm not to keen on thinking its the SKREEM module as that is the transmission of signal not being read for the key fob from my understanding.... it seems to be like the siren alarm is the culprit here.

I read that you can order the new style and it even gives you a light chirp when you press the lock and unlock button for now on.... it cost $151.32 and its located under the windsheld arm, passenger side by the hood, under the cowl. A security Torx bit is needed to remove/replace it.


What do you guys think? worth a shot, any one go through this yet??

http://chryslerpartsdirect.com/

PART# 5124443AA

 

The srt wing on the hatch is prone to leaking. On ours, the gasket that seals the rectangular panel under the wing was letting a lot of water through, where it runs behind interior panels and collects in the two trunkwells.

If your central locking pump and alarm control module get wet, a lot of things can happen.

Crawl under the rear of the car and locate the rubber plugs on the bottom of the trunkwells. They will probably be oversprayed with black undercoating, but you can pop them out with a pliers and flat screwdriver. Just pray that you don't get a stream of water, because if you do you have a bunch of issues to deal with.

I did a repair thread with pictures

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...you-trunk.html

 

Jeff, I think this is the one:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...you-trunk.html

 

If you do decide to buy one, OEdiscountparts has them for $140.40
In case that link doesn't work, It's listed under: Electrical - alarm system - alarm horn

 

Have You checked Your Battery Yet? If it is OEM then it could just be a bad Battery. While the symptoms sound like the Alarm module, Flashing lights and doors that randomly unlock and lock sounds like a Battery.


Just Sayin

 

He already stated in his original post that he replaced the battery and negative cable clamp as a part of trying to solve this.

 

How would I go about testing these signals to see if any of them are faulty? I'm thinking possible Anti-Theft Tow Sensor. As I am driving today, with the fuse 9 taken off, I notice the Tow Sensor light on but in a dimming fashion, luckily, the locks are not unlocking crazy now and no crazy alarm siren ( knock on wood ) since taking the fuse # 9 off.

Another thing, does anyone have a picture thread of showing the procedure of taking the siren alarm off thats located by the passenger windsheld arm by the hood? I'd like to uninstall it and check to see if any of the wires have been fried before actually going out and purchasing a new one.

 

As far as I know, the only way to test those signals is via a DRBIII. If you download the SRT Service Manual in the link that I provided earlier, it will show you how to remove the siren alarm. It is located on page 8Q-53.

 

You are great!! thanks so much for the page on the service manual for removal of the alarm siren. I was looking everywhere for it but that ebook is around 4500 pages long! wow, having that is truly priceless.

My plan right now is to check things out with the siren alarm and go from there.. I will keep you all updated with my findings.

Thanks for that link, it never hurts to save some money! I have to ask though, do you know if that is the siren alarm that has the chirp when you hit the lock and unlock button's? it should be the updated part # 5124443AA. I don't see the part number on the site with the link provided.

 

I've been doing some research and noticed that many people were able to pay around $60 for the Siren Alarm when I input the part # 5124443AA on google for our Siren Alarm. However, when I visit the parts sites that others here have mentioned they all range from $140 to $156.00

Why such a price hike? I never no idea but it seems way too far fetched...

I did find out that Mercedes Benz part # is A 171 820 25 26 is the same Part # match for the Crossfire Part # 5124443AA

Its for the same Alarm Siren, the new one with the chirp. The question is, knowing this info, what are some legit OEM websites giving deep discounted prices ( say around $60-$70 like read previously on google ) where I can buy it or at the least is anyone on here selling a good working used siren alarm that didn't want theirs because they had upgraded to the new one with the chirp that I can buy for a reasonable price?

Please let me know..

 

I read and found out that my problem would most likely be the alarm siren, all has been fine ever since I pulled fuse # 9 off. It stopped my alarm from turning on and whatnot. For the last few days this has worked out.... right now, I went outside and noticed that my fog lights and brake lights are on, even though I did not turn them on, how can I pull the fuse on those from dying my brand new battery? I think it may be time to take her in to the dealer but I need to figure out how to shut off the lights without having to disconnect the battery every time and hoping I don't set the alarm off even though fuse 9 is taken out, there is still a backup battery in the alarm siren it self....... oh boy!

UPDATE: I decided to take my SRT-6 into the Dealership, luckily the Chrysler Dealership here has One Certified Crossfire Technician who did appear to be quite knowledgable about the problems we face from time to time with these cars. I explained the symptoms to him, and put the fuse # 9 back in place, we went over the whole siren alarm could be the culprit but then he said it was odd to see the side marker lights, tail lights, fog lights staying on even though I had pulled the Fuse # 9 and even putting it back in place it kept those lights on, though the locks and interior lights started to work again which is good but we didn't hear the alarm go off (yet) while I was there.

Anyhow, he looked around the car and told me with the rain and all that its a possibilty that a module could've had water leak in the trunk area from the fixed spoiler wing.... we opened the trunk, he pulled up the carpet to check things in the area where the tread tire system is placed and it was in one of the pockets there on the right hand side that had a good amount of WATER in there!!! He said it could be 1 or 2 modules that could be getting water in there that is messing up the functions and why this erractic stuff has been happening. So right now, I'm leaving my car overnight and paying $129.95 for a diagnostic, he said hes going to clean the water out and check the wires and modules and see if they have gone bad... so I'll keep you guys updated on what it turns out to be! this isn't looking good but I did like that he confirmed that the spoiler wing is known to get leaky over time because apparently a desigh flaw of some sort and I did mention that it should be on the recall list to have fixed for free but he said that they made such a limited amount of these cars nothing like this doesn't happen too often..

I did say that with the summer season and raining a lot that its more prone for this to happen now than any time. Hopefully, he can figure it out and I can have my SRT6 back in great condition. I'm just not looking forward to what this can cost..

At least this weighs out the siren alarm in the mean time...

If it turns out to be some kind of module and its too much than I can afford to spend at the Dealership, does any one know if its simple enough to install on one's own or this something that MUST be replaced by dealer? if I can do it on my own, what is a way to disconnect the fuse or some sort of way to keep the battery disconnected while I would wait for parts to come in without having the alarm go off on its own since it does have a backup charging battery in it? thanks.. hopefully I find out its nothing too big when they check things out and let me know, I'll keep you all updated though for anyone that may be currently or may be going to be having this issue in the future..

 

Yep, a know issue that can happen on SRT's.... Check out this thread. https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...you-trunk.html

 

Guess you missed the replies where people mentioned water in the trunk. Pray that they dry out the module and it is fine after, because they are WAY more expensive than the siren module. This has been a known issue on the SLK for 10+ years... many of us have modified the unit by flipping the unit and adding drain holes in the event of water intrusion.

 

fastfunfor2 told you your problem and I agreed with him and never bothered to post essentially the same cause for your problem.
These modules are not cheap, so look on eBay for one.

I would say that only this module is toast if it is soaked. The 'helpful and knowledgeable' tech will invariably run up the bill as he gets a cut of the profits on what he sells you. That's free enterprise for you, it's not free as you'll pay.

I have revised this post in light of a thread I found on a MB forum, maybe it sounds familiar, the fog and tail light problem is due o the cental locking module failure, see the thread attached.
Car lights won't turn off..Help! - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum


Here's an eBay search for the module. Buy a Mercedes one as the Chrysler part will soak you really good.
items - Get great deals on items on eBay Motors!!

Central Locking Pump module for a Chrysler Crossfire 2004 -2008
or Mercedes Benz SLK 2004 - 2008.
The Chrysler part number is 05102774AA
The Mercedes Benz part number is 170 800 0848.