installed my diff today, not an easy job!! some fun facts you diy guys will need
!. rear diff bolts torque 84 ft/lbs
2. front diff bolt torque 33 ft/lbs
3. all suspension bolts 52 ft/lbs
4. driveshaft bolts 44 ft/lbs

the diff hates to be on a jack flops everyway and its heavy!! find a friend to help staedy the diff to install the 2 axles. now if the front diff bolt wont tighten theres a nut inside the frame channel that needs a wrench. simply dislocate your shoulder turn your hand upside down and hold the wrench at an insane angle to get a tiny piece of it on the nut! other than that its a piece of cake!

 

Thanks for the info Steve.

 

I just took mine out. DO NOT FOLLOW THE FACTORY REMOVAL!! It makes it easier to remove EVERYTHING like the service manual says but you do not have to. Drivers side took me an hour the "Correct" service manual way. Passenger side took me 20mins "My" way.
Remove rear wheels
Drain diff fluid into a drain pan
Remove the 3 drive shaft dampener to diff bolts
Remove brake caliper
Remove axle nut
Remove upper camber arm
Remove lower leading arm
Remove lateral arm from body (do not need to take the joint part off the knuckle)
Remove lower control arm bolt and pull the knuckle from the LCA
Push axle stub through the hub
Pry axle over the c-clip in the diff
Support diff with a jack
Remove rear diff bolts
Remove front diff bolt
Now grab a buddy and slowly lower diff while someone else holds it on the jack
Once below the rear x-member pull towards back of the car to remove from driveshaft

 

Thanks Bryan...I need all the instructions I can get...Of course, I'm doing the install myself, so won't have to do everything mentioned.

 

seems like a lot of work bryan. remove the track bar bolt the rear lower control arm bolt and the lateral arm bolt all from the frame positions and the diff will move enogh to pop the axles out. no need to remove brakes or anything else. jonnyb did an excellant writeup which is what i used to remove mine. 12 bolts total removed 3 drive sahft , 3 diff mounts 6 suspension

 

Probably didnt need to take the brakes off but its only a total of 4 bolts. I am doing camber arms anyhow so that step didnt bother me. But Jonny's write-up would probably work very well as you stated.

 

one very important thing to remember is that once the smaller trailing arm is loosened the alignment is toast. there are eccentric washers on both sides of the bolt and nut and no way to mark them for reinstall. you will need to realign the rear at a minimum

 

I have all four brakes to do on the coupe, as well as the resonator delete. So, I should have plenty of room to work. Thanks guys, I am writing everything down.

 

Wow, how many miles on that diff? Run hard?

 

32,000 miles. Around 600 passes at the track. Most of those spraying out of the hole. It had quite a bit of play and the spiders locked up a couples times.
As many problem I've seen others have had I'm suprised it lasted this long.

 

another important thing for the diy is the final torque of all the suspension parts and the driveshaft bolts. these all have to be torqued at ride height so an alignment lift will be needed or a pit to drive over to get proper torque. im did mine in the air to be able to drive it to my alignment shop and will ask the mechanic to loosen the 9 bolts and retorque them on the lift

 

Was/is the keeper roll pin missing or sheared on that shaft? It was really wallowing out badly....

 

That's how it came out. The rest is just metal shavings.

 

Got the call, it's shipping today or tomorrow!

 

Most excellent news! Get pic.'s. Would love to see the swap; is Craig doing it for you? Bob

 

Hi Bob, yes, Craig is doing it and it's scheduled for next Tues. I'll be in LA working so I won't be able to watch.

 

Have him check the backlash and let me know if it needed adjustment. I have to return to the shop that installed mine ...... it's singing. For piece of mind you may want to check how hot the differential gets after a long drive beforehand so you can check it afterwards and have an idea what is normal. Best of luck and success!

Les

 

I've got my WaveTrac still boxed up here in North Carolina. After viewing pictures of members faulty rears and talk about metal shaving in their gear oil. Well,I'm sending my WaveTrac right back across the United States with my pumpkin for an install with assurance of no warrenty problems. Geeeesh that's going to cost! Squirrel Crusher

 

about 200$ for the install and approx 80$ each way to ship

 

About the same shipping ($89) for me in SC Steve. Don I think you made a good decision.