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If you want your FOBs to work, just re-install your SKREEM but don't plug in the CAN connector.
So there are 3 connectors on the SKREEM ... one goes to the "ring", not sure where the others go. One of them, if I remember correctly, has a green and white wire and the last connector has like a flip type connection. Is the green and white the CAN connector? Why would the "ring" connector need to be connected? What would happen if I connect the CAN connector by mistake? Would be nice to have the FOB functions back if it doesn't mess anything up.
So there are 3 connectors on the SKREEM ... one goes to the "ring", not sure where the others go. One of them, if I remember correctly, has a green and white wire and the last connector has like a flip type connection. Is the green and white the CAN connector? Why would the "ring" connector need to be connected? What would happen if I connect the CAN connector by mistake? Would be nice to have the FOB functions back if it doesn't mess anything up.
Thanks for the info!!
RL
The CAN plug is the one with the Green & White wires, don't plug it in. It doesn't matter if you hook up the ring connector either, but it won't hurt. Make sure you plug in the big connector, it's the power supply to the SKREEM and controls all the door locks.
If you connect the CAN connector by mistake then your car might not start. The signal from the SKREEM to the ECU will be conflicting with the signal from the IMMO delete module.
With the set up you now have it should be possible to mate up multiple key fobs to your car (even if they weren't original to the car). Try it out!
Solution achieved ... I think. As the months wore on, the issues became more like the SKREEM problems as I could get the car to crank a couple of times if I unhooked the battery cable and reconnected it. But, sometimes by doing this, it would start, so I wasn't convinced that it was the SKREEM. Reading the FB posts from people that had used SOS Diagnostics and Precision ECU, I finally bit the bullet and went with the immobilizer delete that Precision ECU offered. It was a couple of hundred cheaper than SOS and I was OK with not having the SKREEM in there. Got the parts back today, installed the ECU (left the SKREEM on the bench), followed the instructions to let the car recognize the now reprogrammed ECU and then tried to start the car ... AND IT FIRED RIGHT UP!! Shut it off and tried again and it started right back up. So, for now, I hope this issue is now behind me and I will never have to worry about that stupid SKREEM again. Curiously, one of the problems that I noticed as all this was going on was when the car would crank, it would only crank if I held the key in the start position. Now, I can let the key fall back to the RUN position and the car will still continue to crank until it starts. Not a big deal, but I found that interesting that the "auto crank" (or whatever you call it) was starting to not work as the symptoms worsened.
Side note: without the SKREEM, your FOB will no longer lock or unlock your doors - no biggie to me - at least for now it's not.
RL
That sounds very good. Can you please tell me how the procedure is that precision ECU give you to recognize your ECU?
And it where very helpful if you can open the Skreem (the plastic cover) and make a picture of it. I want to understand how they do it. Please share this with us!
And as CL770 also wrote, you can put the skreem back in your car, only connect the big black connector with the mechanical lock. So you can open and close the car with your key fob.
Have Precission ECU open your key fob?
The CAN plug is the one with the Green & White wires, don't plug it in. It doesn't matter if you hook up the ring connector either, but it won't hurt. Make sure you plug in the big connector, it's the power supply to the SKREEM and controls all the door locks.
If you connect the CAN connector by mistake then your car might not start. The signal from the SKREEM to the ECU will be conflicting with the signal from the IMMO delete module.
With the set up you now have it should be possible to mate up multiple key fobs to your car (even if they weren't original to the car). Try it out!
That sounds very good. Can you please tell me how the procedure is that precision ECU give you to recognize your ECU?
And it where very helpful if you can open the Skreem (the plastic cover) and make a picture of it. I want to understand how they do it. Please share this with us!
And as CL770 also wrote, you can put the skreem back in your car, only connect the big black connector with the mechanical lock. So you can open and close the car with your key fob.
Have Precission ECU open your key fob?
The procedure Precision gave me was to:
Unhook the negative battery cable
Make sure the key is out of the ignition
Connect and install the ECU only (not the SKREEM)
Reconnect the negative battery cable
Insert the key, turn ignition to RUN (not START) and wait at least 90 seconds
Turn the key to OFF and remove the key and wait at least 90 seconds
Insert the key and start the car
I'll try to open the SKREEM and get you a picture, but I think that whatever they did happened in the ECU as there was a tamper proof seal tape on the ECU ... the SKREEM did not have this. I did not have to send my FOB to Precision for this procedure so nothing was modified in the FOB.
Unhook the negative battery cable
Make sure the key is out of the ignition
Connect and install the ECU only (not the SKREEM)
Reconnect the negative battery cable
Insert the key, turn ignition to RUN (not START) and wait at least 90 seconds
Turn the key to OFF and remove the key and wait at least 90 seconds
Insert the key and start the car
I'll try to open the SKREEM and get you a picture, but I think that whatever they did happened in the ECU as there was a tamper proof seal tape on the ECU ... the SKREEM did not have this. I did not have to send my FOB to Precision for this procedure so nothing was modified in the FOB.
Thanks, for sharing the start procedure. I think this have nothing with the Imobilizer Off function to do, this is a safety way to install a component.
Please do me the favor and take a picture of the open skreem, if they have done something with it i could see that. And as you wrote and the pictures show it is also not sealed so it wouldn't attack any warranty. To open the skreem use two flat pices of plastic and put the on the top and bottom side where the connectors are. Then you can slide the housing backwards.
And the sealing of the ECU are useless, because after remove all skews you are able to open the top sheet and use the seal as a hinge. If the seal it on both sides you couldn't open it without destroying a seal
And the sealing of the ECU are useless, because after remove all skews you are able to open the top sheet and use the seal as a hinge. If the seal it on both sides you couldn't open it without destroying a seal
The CAN plug is the one with the Green & White wires, don't plug it in. It doesn't matter if you hook up the ring connector either, but it won't hurt. Make sure you plug in the big connector, it's the power supply to the SKREEM and controls all the door locks.
If you connect the CAN connector by mistake then your car might not start. The signal from the SKREEM to the ECU will be conflicting with the signal from the IMMO delete module.
With the set up you now have it should be possible to mate up multiple key fobs to your car (even if they weren't original to the car). Try it out!
CL770 is correct!!
This is the email I received from Precision ECU when I asked them if I could get the door lock functions back:
"Yes you can install the SCREEM but do not plug the 2 small plugs to it. If the remotes don't work, try re sync them"
And the sealing of the ECU are useless, because after remove all skews you are able to open the top sheet and use the seal as a hinge. If the seal it on both sides you couldn't open it without destroying a seal
Hi Viper-666
I agree, I don't think they've done anything with the SKREEM. I think they've just installed an IMMO emulator in the ECU. I see that the "Julie" emulator now supports the Bosch ME28 & ME28.1 ECUs. I think it's what they've used.
Thanks, for sharing the start procedure. I think this have nothing with the Imobilizer Off function to do, this is a safety way to install a component.
Please do me the favor and take a picture of the open skreem, if they have done something with it i could see that. And as you wrote and the pictures show it is also not sealed so it wouldn't attack any warranty. To open the skreem use two flat pices of plastic and put the on the top and bottom side where the connectors are. Then you can slide the housing backwards.
@RL67037
Thank you very much for the pictures
The Skreem module is Original, they don't read out the processor, because they have to solder out him to do that. You say you haven't send a key with it, so I think they would have it to be sure the user have deassembled it so it doesn't disturbed heir work.
That they say don't plug back the small plugs shows me, that the ECU isn't really without immobilizer. I think they have installed a module similar to my Skreemulator. If so they have mounted a module into the ECU what does send the valid keys to disarm the immobilizer.
That can my Skreemulator also do yet, I'm struggling to emulate the opening command for the central locking system. so that my Skreemulator is a 1:1 changing with the skeem.
I got my ECU back. The car runs great but i cant get FOB to work. I didn't hook my SKEEEM antenna ring back up. Could that be why it wont relearn? Its not that big of a deal at least my car runs again.
I got my ECU back. The car runs great but i cant get FOB to work. I didn't hook my SKEEEM antenna ring back up. Could that be why it wont relearn? Its not that big of a deal at least my car runs again.
Have you send your FOB to precision ecu? If not does it work before? Have you changed the batteries of the FOB? The Skreem don't need any voltage to store things, so they don't need to resynchronize only thr FOB if it loose power.
But you can hook up the black plug from the ring antenna without disturbing anything. But don't hook up the white plug, that's the CAN bus and could give trouble with the "immo off".
The fob worked before my skreem issue. I just might be doing something wrong with the relearning process. Didn't know if the antenna ring had anything to do with it. Ill try again my next day off work.
I've heard from others that your fob won't work after a skreem delete from precision ecu.
That is not true. Mine works just fine. Precision did tell me that if it doesn't work after reconnecting the SKREEM, you would have to re-synch it to the car. I did not have to do that as it worked right off the bat. I do not have the CAN bus wires nor the halo wires hooked up - only the large top connector is hooked up, so I don't believe the ignition halo has anything to do with it. Keep trying to re-synch your FOB.
Re: 2005 Won’t Start
